Apres 40 ans de regne sur la mode, Gabrielle Chanel, plus connue
sous le nom de Coco Chanel s’est eteinte a Paris le 10 janvier 1970, a l’age de
87 ans.
Nee a Saumur, orpheline de Bonne heure, elle avait ete elevee par
deux tantes auvergnantes. En partant a la conquete de Paris, la jeune fille
allait preparer une eclatante revanche a ce qu’elle appelait son “horrible
enfance”.
Lorsqu’en 1919 Gabrielle Chanel ouvre rue Cambon une boutique de
mode, elle est deja un personnage. Amie de nombreux peintres et artistes, Coco
promene dans les endroits chics une silhouette originale et elegante: tailleur
souple en jersey, pull-over d’allure masculine, impermeable. Les femmes
corsetees et baleinees la regardent et, aussitot l’imitent. A grands coups de
ciseaux tombent volants et falbalas, la taille se libere et, avec elle, la
femme.
En vacances a Cannes, Coco eprouve la revelation des peaux cuivrees
par le soleil de la Cote: la vogue du bronzage commence. Du Midi, toujours,
elle rapporte son celebre parfum “Numero Cinq” qui fera le tour du monde.
Pendant pres d’un demi-siecle, Coco donne a la femme un vetement
qui, selon son expression, “lui va comme une seconde peau”. Elle invente la
petite robe en crepe noir, cree les perles fausses, les bijoux de fantaisie.
Elle lance le jersey qui se porte du matin au soir. C’en est fini de changer de
tenue a toute heure da la journee! Selon Mademoiselle Chanel, la mission de la
mode est de descendre dans la rue. Ses ateliers executent ses creations par
dizaines de milliers.
Coco Chanel venait d’approuver 85 modeles, les plus beaux qu’elle
ait crees, selon ses collaborateurs: une multitude de petites tailleurs de
tweed legerement raccourcis, des manteaux droits et des robes vaporeuses. La
collection a ete presentee le 26 janvier 1970. C’etait la derniere collection
signee Chanel. Mais la griffe, elle, survivra…
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